Bluerock Mountain Sept 27, 2013

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Start of winter in the mountains.  Drove to Turner Valley and then west to Sheep River area. Parked at Bluerock equestrian camp. Temp was -3 C and hiked on Bluerock creek trail in trees – at highpoint (bench and hitching post) headed up ridge and over first highpoint.  Second highpoint has major rock wall with gully 2-300 m left of ridge. Moderate difficulty scramble but harder with ice on it and smooth water worn holds. Not to be under estimated and down climb would be worse.  Early season with snow would be easy to kick steps up this.  One waist high step that required some thinking.  Upper ridge was relatively easy but the high winds and 20-30 cm snow in places made it tougher so 5.5 hrs to top.  We decide on the alternate descent to avoid the winds and  the down climb.  Down a broad gully with snow was good but the blow down area and side hilling took some time.  found the sheep trail in scree up on the left/east side of the valley and followed it out and up across the big scree slopes and up through trees to regain the trail below the highpoint.

RT 10.5 hrs  for probably ~ 25 km and ~ 1500 m with lose and regain 100 m twice on creek crossing and 200 m regain on alternate descent and then up and down on ridge.

Pica at Bluerock

Wietse pics – some good action pics with the wind.

 

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Mount Edith Cavell East Ridge 5.3 Sept 14, 2013 Jasper

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Edith Cavell East Ridge 5.3

 

Dry – never touched any snow so no ice axe or crampons!  Ideal conditions with a perfect sunny day so we had to go do this classic. Stayed at hostel which worked out ok- reasonable bed and used kitchen at 4 am.  walking at 5 am – busy as at least a dozen others on route. Took trail to climbers trail by headlamp and followed trail between trees and moraine to col – see pics and map – 2 hrs- good work Wietse! Came up to left of snow/ice patches and then followed slightly rising trail right to col.  Lots of others crashed and rolled rocks as they went up moraine early and then down on loose talus and then straight up at col on talus and snow.

Stayed right of gully(would be snow most of year) for first part of ridge switching back and forth on ascending ledges and easy scramble until close to snow triangle/shoulder then followed cairns left across gully below snow and then up to ridge and up to plateau. ~ 2 hrs

Up to steeper steps.  First step roped up and did ~ 30 m pitch to rap anchor – mod to dif scramble but exposed. all the other groups were ahead at this point so no rush.

Second step is the real climbing. Roped and did two 25+ m pitches to rap stations on steeper rock 5.3 ish – maybe 5.4 for 1-2 moves.   Started out on right side for 10 m then moved left and went up left side for rest.   Several lines up the face but not that hard to find the easy line.  Some pins  in place but easy placements – lots of cracks in the quartzite – carried three small cams in the .5 to 1.5 inch range and several small nuts and tri cams.

Short roped, scrambled or simu-climbed from here to top over 7 or 8 more little steps on the upper lower angle part.  leisurely pace as we thoroughly enjoyed the climbing so 8.5 hours including breaks.

Dry along top for all three summits and bypassed some of S ridge down left off west summit on scree and then crossed ridge to right over into SW bowl – scree trail down and right to SW ridge and followed trail on top of ridge down to Sorrow col to correct drainage.  Big cairn – down drainage/rib and then follow cairns down ledges – some moderate down climb – and rib to talus fan and eventually to meadows. Nice rest/nap and then follow trail out to main trail and long walk back to road.  15 hours total with breaks and nap. Sunny beautiful day with great climbing on a classic ridge – hard to beat.

Added a bunch of comments to pics.

pics Edith Cavell

Wietse’s pics

 

 

 

 

 

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Commonweath Peak Kananaskis Scramble Aug 3 2013

Commonwealth scramble route1

commonwealth peak kane scramble route kananaskis

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base of upper gulley groove

 

Don’t forget your water shoes or old runners for crossing the bog and streams.

Go into trees 30 m to left of start of avi runout and take time to find the up trail as if beats rock bands and bushwacking in small trees on avi path.

Ugly scree above col as go up to right – we kept close to left hand wall and then crossed over a rib and then angled up left into a gulley with more ugly scree which lead up to start of short mod climb in agulley/groove to summit ridge.

This needs more traffic to clean up scree although hardly worth it for such a short scramble section.  Reasonable training run I guess.

pics at Commonwealth

Wietse’s pics

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Cathedral Mountain July 20 2013 Summer climb Yoho Park

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Cathedral Yoho Park Summer climb 

 

Great climb with Wietse. Walk 4 km on road and bring runners/sandals for stream crossing. Good to have gps track and follow trail up through trees to above tree line.

Some ice showing on glacier and snow was a bit soft but went well and beat out the weather.

 

pics at Cathedral

Wietse’s pics – better

Full screen slide show best for both.

 

 

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Mothers Day Buttress July 14, 2013

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Drove through rain from Calgary to Scott Lake Hill and then started out to Louis but threatening cloud, cool weather and windy so did not want to commit to Louis so deceded to do Mothers Day Buttress 5.6.

Great short climb – 25 min approach and about 3 hours to top. Walk trail along upper treed bench, some down scramble and one rap.

Busy – talked to Tom Waddel, Ken Takabe and Faisal(sp?) and friend and there were 4 more just behind us.

pics at Mothers Day

busy

 

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Mount Yamnuska Ridge 5.3 Scramble Traverse July 1, 2013

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Mount Yamnuska Ridge 5.3 Scramble   Traverse – Alternate to Kane Route – Chained ledge off to left

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Backside of Yamnuska – normal descent route -mostly scree run down – not great ascent route

Short hot scramble with Dave and Wietse on July 1. Took the ridge on Yamnuska versus walking up the trail. Pictures tell the story but mostly a moderate scramble with exposure.

Pics at yamnuska ridge

Wietse’s pics

 2008 pics and description 

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Eisenhower Tower, Castle Mountain climb Banff

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Eisenhower Tower Castle Mountain Banff Climb

 

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Great alpine climb with Dave Salahub and Guides Mark Klassen and Mary Beth.

Route was in good shape and day was a little cool which worked well for the approach and climbing. Will add more pics from Dave and Mark.

 

Eisenhower Tower full screen slideshow best.

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Erickson, Crowsnest June 2013

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Mount Erickson at Crowsnest Pass – about seven km into B.C.

Trip with Kevin and Scott.  Mountain was done by group of seven and Dave S. on Saturday and us on Sunday.  We did not start at end of ridge so we went up on RH side and used the service road for the large powerline. We then went up and down mostly on the east side of the ridge crest.

Note if take the logging road which goes North off highway 2-3 km East then could drive up service road for powerline and save 1 -2 km and gain 400 + m before gain ridge.  Also could travel logging road until could access col on North side of main summit and could miss the whole ridge.  See route maps in  with the pics.

Pics at Erickson  – full screen slideshow best.

 

 

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Heart Mountain May 2013

 

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Heart Mountain – May 2013

Heart 2013  use full screen slide show for best viewing

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Commonwealth Ridge April 21 2013

 

A snow shoe trip with Dave S.  Good quick trip although a lot colder than expected.  Best access to ridge is to stick with the ski tracks until past the right side of the cut block and then keep going through trees until on the main treed ridge and then turn left and go up ridge.  If go up at cutblock then go over a hill and then down and then up steep treed side of ridge.

Ridge had a lot of snow as the normal cornice is on the left hand side but the recent upslope east winds/storm had laid down considerable soft slab on the right hand side.  We went to the first summit but judged the slope under the rock buttress and then steeply up to the second summit to be too loaded to be worth it.  The consequences were too high.

Commonwealth ridge

 

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