Daytrip from the campground with Mark Klassen and Kris Irwin leading Kevin, Dave and myself on a great easy rock route. Plan A was to be North Victoria but was too hot with no overnight freeze so we decided to go to Rogers Pass and do Uto from the campground(1700m day). Up early in the morning to beat the heat but still sweated our way up to the col. Crossed the stream just below the waterfall which was a little wet and deeper on the way down. Trail to the bivy site is marked with lots of pink ribbon. Lots of snow in the bowl above the moraines and the bivy site is totally covered with only the top foot of the green throne visible. Kicked steps up to the col(~ 4 Hrs).
Uto SW ridge is a great rock route on solid dry quartzite. We stayed mostly close to the ridge or went left for easier ground. The guidebook says class 4 with some 5.1 but we found some sections or moves of mid fifth class as we were having fun so didn’t spend much time searching for the easiest line. Climbed in my red Sportiva boots – good rubber and edging – rock shoes not required. Blocky rock so a mixture of moves with plenty of upper body moves if you are short.
Bluebird day gave great views. (~8 hrs to top) Sir Donald still has a fair bit of snow on upper part. See pics. Went down the NW ridge – one rap – until get to a snow gully which takes you down to the bowl and back to bivy site and down and out. Long roundtrip day (14 hrs at easy pace)from the campground but well worth it.
Pics at Uto full screen slideshow is best.
To download any pic just go to largest version and right click.
Kevin’s blog writeup – Uto Ascent – Kevin even describes me as graceful!!