Trying to avoid the snow. Mostly sunny day with not too much wind. Some snow in trees starting near top of DJ but good trail/steps on most.
Route:There are many variations and trails in trees on lower part but they all go up. Route issues start 2/3 way up DJ when you encounter a series of slabs on the right and you want to keep to the top or RH of slabs. These slabs get steeper and higher as you progress upward and you do not want to go along the bottom or left hand side. There usually are several ways to get up each slab -either at RH edge/start, scramble a break, ledges, cracks, rough spots or friction the slab, etc. Crux slab is near top of DJ has two grooves that both work(see pic). Some thigh deep snow on a few sections in trees but lots of traffic so good trail. More snow between DJ and Loder but no issues.
About 800 m and 6.5 km RT
For perspective Pics from a previous trip in 2007 Some better pics of the slabs.