{"id":532,"date":"2010-07-16T20:52:41","date_gmt":"2010-07-17T03:52:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/?p=532"},"modified":"2018-12-25T22:07:44","modified_gmt":"2018-12-26T05:07:44","slug":"stanley-north-face-july-1510","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/index.php\/stanley-north-face-july-1510\/","title":{"rendered":"Mount Stanley North Face July 15\/10 Kootenay Park, Canada"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_1727\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/07\/P7170070_001-Large.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1727\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1727\" src=\"https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/07\/P7170070_001-Large-1024x636.jpg\" alt=\"OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA\" width=\"1024\" height=\"636\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/07\/P7170070_001-Large-1024x636.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/07\/P7170070_001-Large-300x186.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/07\/P7170070_001-Large-768x477.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/07\/P7170070_001-Large.jpg 1740w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1727\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mount Stanley North Face Kootenay BC Ice Snow Climb<\/p><\/div>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-533\" title=\"p7150097\" src=\"https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/07\/p7150097-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"p7150097\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/07\/p7150097-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/07\/p7150097-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/07\/p7150097.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Roy, Kevin and I along with\u00a0guide Mark Klassen and assistant Kris Irwin\u00a0did the North Face (Kahl route &#8211; alpine Grade III)\u00a0on Thursday.\u00a0 Solid day as we left the bivy at 2:30AM and were on top by 8 AM.\u00a0 Good conditions as schrund was easy and only two pitches of easy ice just above the schrund. Double kick on the step kicking on the upper half was\u00a0lots of work and would not have wanted to be up there later.\u00a0 There were ski tracks from 2-3 weeks ago and a soloist from Chile went by.\u00a0 Summit was just at base of clouds so limited view of bigger things like Ball but felt good.\u00a0 We went down the ridge which was a little more complicated and slower than expected but safe.\u00a0 The lower gully back onto the glacier is east facing and looked sloppy and then would still have to get by lower part of glacier.<br \/>\nDown the ledges above the waterfall(Nemesis) to bivy at 2 PM and out to car by 4PM for a solid 14 hour day.<\/p>\n<p>Mark did a great job planning and executing\u00a0the day\u00a0and the 2 AM start was crucial to summit success. Very good guiding by both guys which made for a great fun day without the stress.<\/p>\n<p>Pictures at <a href=\"http:\/\/billkerr.zenfolio.com\/p630936069\">Stanley North Face<\/a>\u00a0 Full screen slideshow works best.<\/p>\n<p>Mark&#8217;s website <a href=\"http:\/\/www.alpinism.com\/\">Alpinism<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Roy, Kevin and I along with\u00a0guide Mark Klassen and assistant Kris Irwin\u00a0did the North Face (Kahl route &#8211; alpine Grade III)\u00a0on Thursday.\u00a0 Solid day as we left the bivy at 2:30AM and were on top by 8 AM.\u00a0 Good conditions &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/index.php\/stanley-north-face-july-1510\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[45,16,68,14,23,46,21,6,41,24,69,67,20,48,29,42,70,37,17,38,40,31,47],"class_list":["post-532","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-alpine-climb","tag-alberta","tag-alpine","tag-alpine-grade-iii","tag-backcountry","tag-banff","tag-british-columbia","tag-canada","tag-climb","tag-climbing","tag-glacier","tag-guide","tag-ice","tag-icefield","tag-kootenay","tag-mountain","tag-mountaineering","tag-nf","tag-ridge","tag-rockies","tag-rope","tag-route","tag-snow","tag-waterfall"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/532","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=532"}],"version-history":[{"count":18,"href":"https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/532\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2368,"href":"https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/532\/revisions\/2368"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=532"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=532"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.billkerr.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=532"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}