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Canadian Rockies Guidebooks

See Rocky Mountain Books http://www.rmbooks.com/ Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies By Alan Kane http://www.rmbooks.com/book_details.php?isbn_upc=9780921102670 More Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies By Andrew W. Nugara Release Date: 01/05/2007 http://www.rmbooks.com/book_details.php?isbn_upc=9781894765862 The 11,000ers of the Canadian Rockies Updated Edition By Bill Corbett Release Date: 15/01/2009 http://www.rmbooks.com/book_details.php?isbn_upc=9781897522400 Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies By Sean Dougherty Release Date: 01/05/1997 Dated but still usefull http://www.rmbooks.com/book_details.php?isbn_upc=9780921102144

Squaws Tit (not PC but name from guidebook)

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Pictures are here
Squaws Tit

I do not know if there is anyone out there who has not done this yet but bushwacking is no longer necessary. I had put off doing this because of all the reports of bad thrashing and compass readings, etc.
squaws-tit-approach-trails1

I decide to do Squaws solo after my hiker friend called in the morning to cancel with some lame excuse about a leaky water heater and potentially flooded basement. I decided to switch objectives since by now there must be trails and solo since no time to find anyone and everyone I know has done it anyway.
I took my GPS and was determined to do minimal bushwacking. Parked at the dayuse lot just East of the dry drainage that crosses the road on the East side of Harvie Heights. Map sign

Took the Meander trail for about 1.5 km to a point where I thought I should bushwack and there was a trail going off the left side exactly where I wanted to go. Followed it down and across a drainage and small stream(could be wet/messy) and then up slopes until I hit the Montaine traverse trail. I went up right on it until near its highpoint and there was a very good trail leading off the left and up the ridge through the trees. This had 2-3 logs marking it(no rock cairn?) and it lead all the way up the ridge to the rock. Above tree line it breaks into many scree variations but there are always switchbacked up trails on either side. Stuck close to the left edge on the rock ridge within 10 – 20 ft of the edge all the way to get the best scrambling and avoid the scree bypasses. There is one spot of slabby 5.3 that was probably avoidable but fun. Slab to the left side of summit block was dry, clean and grippy.

After come off rock ridge on the way down, avoid going too far skiers left on the scree trails as you will miss the trail in the trees. Overall a quick fun trip.

Note that the fastest best trail route would be to park at the west end of Harvie Heights and take the Tibits Quarry trail to the Montaine trail.

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